Latest Posts
Browsing Category
"Sihanoukville"
Koh Thmei is part of Ream National Park but this hasn't stopped the government from selling a substantial amount of the island to the highest bidder.Right now the island is mostly empty; although a few families live on the island, there's not so much as a village and the only current accommodation is Koh Thmei Resort. Their owners believe that they were allowed to open because of their eco-friendly policies; they power it by day using solar panels and have a complex natural water filtration system. You'll often find the local police drinking beers there.A 99-year lease has been granted to one of the main property developers in Sihanoukville, a Malaysian firm, which plans to build a resort town on 2000 hectares of the island and a bridge to the mainland. They've promised to protect at least 40% of the island but we're not holding our breath ...For now, though, the island is practically pristine. Flanked by mangrove forests, the island is a natural paradise that is as far from Sihanoukville as night is from day. Koh Thmei is the habitat of many types of interesting wildlife, particularly birds. Over 150 types of birds make their home in the park and a trip to the island offers ample bird-watching opportunities. To be fair, they seem to have their share of bugs as well.Snorkellers will be happy with the possibilities around the coral reefs and the beaches are piled with exotic seashells for those who don't want to go underwater. Athletic types can kayak and when the weather's right, surf.
Cambodia's Kep is a former playground of the French and Cambodian elite, with the King Father's crumbling mansions sitting atop the hill, a testament to the country's cultural zenith in the 1960s. It takes some imagination to conjure this heyday from the weekday peace and laidback ambiance, but the revival of a white sand beach and a throng of holidaying Khmers at weekends hark back to Kep's popular past.Kep is staging a slow but steady comeback. Over several years, many of the beachside plots, which hosted nothing but ruined villas and tangled jungle for decades, have been snapped up by foreign royalty, merchant bankers, expatriates and wealthy Khmers. While visiting the town's hotels, it's quickly apparent that it wants to be more upscale and subdued than Sihanoukville and even Kampot. Much of the accommodation is resort-style bungalow places, although you can find a bed for less than $10 a night at more budget-minded establishments. Refreshingly, development here for the most part seems slow, careful, and planned. A 20-year masterplan emphasises preserving the environment and limiting development, particularly along the beachfront.
Koh Ta Kiev is one of the closest islands to Sihanoukville and is on the itinerary of many of the day trips and island tours that leave from there. Very few people stay overnight on the island, though, which is a shame because it's beautiful and has a few easily accessible beaches.Like most of the islands in Cambodia, Koh Ta Kiev has been leased to a foreign company — the same French outfit that owns, or has taken 99-year leases, on half of Koh Russei and parts of Ream National Park. They have ambitious plans for high-end resorts and boutique luxury hotels, although there's little sign of development from them apart from the beginnings of an inland road.A second 99 year lease has been granted to a Chinese Malaysian firm who, according to media reports, plan to spend US$2-3 billion dollars "developing" the island. Going on photos supplied to us by Crusoe Island (see Crusoe's accommodation listing here) the company's idea of development isn't really inline what we'd consider to be development. It looks like they're just trashing it actually -- residents suggest giving the island two years before it is finished.The shadow of development means there are just a few choices for accommodation, including Koh Ta Kiev Bungalows, Crusoe Island and Ten 103 Treehouse Bay, in relatively secluded calm.Three lovely yellow sand beaches shaded by pine trees are accessible on the island and its coral reefs that make for excellent snorkelling. Trekking paths meander through the jungle if you're feeling adventurous and would like to do a bit of wildlife-spotting; we're told that the island is inhabited by carnivorous pitcher plants. Bird watchers will be happy to hear that more than 150 species call Koh Ta Kiev home.OrientationPhone service is accessible on the island through Metfone and Smart, but WiFi is blessedly not available, meaning you can really relax away from the outside world.
This small fishing village island sits at the half way mark between Ko Kong and Sihanoukville. Accommodation is available on the island, and for those interested in experiencing a totally unadulterated stay in a Cambodian fishing village, then this isn't a bad choice.Located just a twenty minute boat-ride off the Cambodian coast, Ko Sdach is dominated by a sizeable fishing village that stretches along the side of the island that faces the mainland. While fishing is the mainstay of the local economy, the village also has a large ice-making plant, where you can watch it being made and ferried off by boat to the surrounding islands.On the far side of the island lies the island's main beach, a somewhat rocky affair that sits beside the island's premiere karaoke bar. You can swim here if you wish and the water is crystal clear -- as an added bonus, while you're underwater you can't hear the karaoke.Ko Sdach is surrounded by a bunch of other islands and the mainland, many of which have spectacular and totally deserted beaches -- all of which can be visited on daytrips by longtail from Ko Sdach.Bear in mind that nobody at the guesthouse and very few people on the island speak English. If you speak even basic Khmer (or Thai) you'll be fine, but if not, you'll be needing a lot of hand gestures to make yourself understood.
Koh Rong Samloem is just two hours' and yet a world away from Sihanoukville. The island of many spellings — it's also known as Koh Rung Samloem, Koh Rong Saloem, Koh Rong Samlon and a few other variations — is owned by the Cambodian navy, which has a base there. Thus far the government has not sold Koh Rong Samloem as they have with most of its neighbouring islands — word is that they're saving the best for last.The western side has three gorgeous yellow sand beaches, which are perfect for watching the deep pink sunsets every evening. On the eastern side is heart-shaped Saracen Bay, named after a British ship that once sailed there, and known for diving and snorkelling. The beaches on this side are an eye-blinding white, with a fast-developing choice of accommodation, from eco tents and circular huts to swish romantic bungalows.At the northern top of the island is a small fishing village called M'Pai Bei, or 23 in Khmer. Marine Conservation Cambodia, a volunteer-funded ecotourism project, is based here and offers volunteering opportunities to visitors such as teaching in the local village and marine conservation. Those who are visiting for just a few days can participate in beach cleanups. Because of their strong relationship with the organisation, Village 23 is a particularly friendly place for tourists to visit and see life in a rural fishing village.If volunteering isn't your thing, there are many snorkelling and diving opportunities on the island — The Dive Shop, Scuba Nation and Eco Sea in Sihanoukville do dives here and many of the places to stay on the island also rent snorkelling gear.Other activities include trekking — the centre of the island is mostly jungle — and fishing the old-fashioned way with a line and hook. The Beach at Saracen Bay hosts monthly full moon parties, bringing over a boat-load of backpackers from Sihanoukville to join in the fun. If that sounds too tiring you can always relax with a cocktail on the porch of the aptly-named Lazy Beach. Koh Rong Samloem has enough options to keep everyone happy -- the only problem is deciding which part of the island to stay on.It's possible to get a longtail to take you from the western side to M'Pai Bei for a negotiated fee (somewhere around $20 is reasonable), and jungle paths connect Robinson Bungalows and Lazy Beach to Saracen Bay, so if you can't decide, try more than one.OrientationKoh Rong Samloem is beginning to attract more visitors, and it may be best to arrange accommodation before you go (or at least the first few nights) as you probably don't want to be trekking through the jungle in search of a room on the other side of the island from where you've arrived. The island's electricity comes from generators and solar power, and while there is mobile phone coverage from Metfone and Hello Axiata, WiFi is still a magical thing of the future. There are no ATMs on the island -- bring enough cash to last you.Wildlife is an integral part of an undeveloped island, and Koh Rong Samloem has a veritable zoo of giant geckos, dogs, monkeys, hornbills and snakes. While you're unlikely to have a close encounter unless you don your safari suit and go looking, you should remember you are sharing the island with its original inhabitants. One insect you'll almost certain get up close and personal with is the pesky sandfly. These small black flies like to bite, and leave itchy red marks that can irritate for days. The best approach is prevention -- bring along some good strong repellant with DEET and apply it before you hit the beach, not forgetting that dusk is prime biting time, too.
The provincial capital of Koh Kong is the arrival point for many foreign travellers en route to Cambodia due to the international border crossing with Thailand which lies a short distance from the town. A pretty dusty old affair, Krong Koh Kong (the city of Koh Kong, but usually just called Koh Kong) sits on the western bank of the Kah Bpow River -- a wide flowing river which is spanned by a spic-and-span Thai-financed bridge that you're welcome to drive across for a 1,200 riel moto toll or 4,800 riel for cars.Koh Kong is a sleepy riverside town and there's not much in the way of tourist attractions within the town itself. However, it's a handy base for boat trips, waterfall and beach excursions. The town has also become a hub for eco-tourism trips and jungle trekking.For a town of its size, it has a disproportionate number of western-managed bars which are primarily aimed at Thailand- based expats on visa runs. One Koh Kong city regular describes the local expat scene as "rather Monty-Pythonesque", but regardless of your opinion, there's certainly not a shortage of places for a refreshing drink and expats to talk to.Koh Kong province retained a Khmer Rouge presence longer than other more central tracts of Cambodia and Thai military and private “investors" took advantage of this to extract vast tracts of timber and other valuables. The Chi Phat area in particular was know for rapacious logging, slash and burn and poaching. Ironically, through the involvement of Wildlife Alliance, many Chi Phat residents have been retrained and now work at the vanguard of one of Cambodia's more promising ecotourism initiatives.With an overnight stay in Koh Kong you could visit a waterfall in the morning and an outlying beach in the afternoon before catching transport out of there the following morning -- that would be sufficient for many, though with more time, there's no shortage of beaches worth exploring or jungles to be trekked -- just bear in mind the cost of getting to the beaches can get prohibitive if you're travelling alone.Along with the bars there's an ample supply of guesthouses in Koh Kong, both in the centre of town and down towards the river. Prices are competitive.Cham Yeam International border crossingA moto either way between Koh Kong and the border costs US$3 or 100 baht and includes the 1,200 riel toll. Cars cost double. The Cham Yeam International checkpoint is open between 07:00 and 20:00.The actual price for a tourist visa is $20 and a "normal" visa costs $25. In practice, immigration officers ask for between 1,200 and 1,600 baht respectively. Many tourists using this border crossing report lots of extra charges, fees and requests for cash on the Cambodian side -- however, with some perseverance you should be able to get through without paying extra.Have American dollars in the correct denomination ready before you cross. You can ignore the "health check" desk -- having a health check is not a requirement. Do not let anyone take your passport and fill out your visa forms or carry your bags, they will expect to be paid for these services.They will try and tell you that you're about to miss the bus to encourage you to cough up the cash, and it's likely that your moto driver will be in on the scam. If you want to avoid the extra charges, budget extra time for this, it can take ten to thirty minutes of standing around insisting that you don't want to pay any more than the actual $20 visa fee, but eventually they will let you through. The easiest solution is get your visa in advance so as to not have to purchase one at the border.Ignore anyone that tells you that you need to change your Thai Baht before crossing or that there aren't ATMs across the border. There are, and you'll get better exchange rates in town compared to the extortionate ones at the border.OrientationDepending on the business, prices will be quoted in Thai Baht, Riel or US Dollars. It's generally best to pay in whichever currency is quoted, because the exchange rates are usually unfavourable. There are at least a dozen money-changers on the outskirts of the market who offer surprisingly good rates, but unlike the old days, you can manage a trip to Koh Kong and get by without having any Thai baht. Currently, there's only one ATM in town and it only accepts cards with a Visa logo, although a Canadia ATM is being built that will accept both.
For now, though, the island is practically pristine. Flanked by mangrove forests, the island is a natural paradise that is as far from Sihanoukville as night is from day. Koh Thmei is the habitat of many types of interesting wildlife, particularly birds. Over 150 types of birds make their home in the park and a trip to the island offers ample bird-watching opportunities. To be fair, they seem to have their share of bugs as well.
